Report about our lighthouse trip to Sealand in April 2001
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1st lighthouse day
We arrive by ferry in Gedser, not for the first time, but the first time without time
pressure. Finally time to visit the Lighthouse Gedser Odde,
which is easily visible from the ferry. We turn right, a few hundred yards from the exit of the
ferry port and leave the dross of hurried tourists to rush north on their own.
A few kilometres later we reached the lighthouse, a few meters further on at
the beach even a car park can be found. The lighthouse and the grounds are
accessible. We try from several sides to get good position for photographs and
are finally convinced that we got a few good pictures. So now we drive back
north on the by now nearly traffic-free E55.
Our next destinations are the two lighthouses Orehoved and Ore. So we don't use the
motorway, but carry on on the trunk road in the direction of Vordingborg. Immediately
before the old bridge over Storstrømmen we don't cross this, but turn into the
town of Orehoved. Much to late we look back and see the lighthouse, turn the car and drive back. It is
obviously in a harbour/industrial area. When the warning signs get too
prolific, we decide to leave the car behind. We ask a couple of elderly ladies,
who show us the way and we reach the Lighthouse Orehoved.
From here you don't only have a great view of the old bridge, which connects Falster with
Sealand, but also of the lighthouse Ore opposite on Sealand, which we tried to
reach after we crossed the bridge.
After the third turning into a 'blind vej' (dead end) we manage to reach the
Lighthouse Ore. Contrary to Orehoved this one turns out to be a especially nice looking lighthouse.
After this nothing is stopping us from driving more or less within the Danish speed limit to our
holiday house in Røsnæs.
Even though we are tired as well as satisfied, we felt like stretching our legs.
This means nothing other than at least a look at the lighthouse Røsnæs should
be possible. After a few kilometres walk on the beach (more bothersome than
expected) we see the Røsnæs Fyr flashing away. On the way back we use the
direct road, but were still overtaken by darkness, found our house regardless
and fell into a dead sleep.
2nd lighthouse day
We wanted to start the grand tour with Spodsbjerg Fyr
and so we drive to Hundested. A young Dane, in English because of our German number plate, asked
for a light, which we could not give. But we use the chance to question him in
English about the lighthouse. The response is excellent. He also mentions the
nearby museum of the polar explorer Knud Rasmussen. We thank him and are on
location ten minutes later. The lighthouse presents a wonderful view and can be
climbed by anyone for 5 DKK (Danish Kronas). With only a 100 DKK note in our
purse we didn't dare to do that. Well we dared, but since the entrance fee was
charged on trust, decency prohibited us from doing that. A Danish couple
walking on the beach solved the problem for us. The Rasmussen Museum was
closed, which we were sad about, but which was good for our itenary.
Onwards we journeyed towards Gilleleje, where near Nakkehoved, two lighthouses were
waiting for us. Since one of them was also known as Gillbjerg and was only few
kilometres from Gilleleje, a mountain of the same name, we stopped there, only
to find that all the locals shyly denied that there was a lighthouse in this
area. Some though knew that it was east of Gilleleje. After a few wrong turns we
found Nakkehoved East or rather the old lighthouse
Nakkehoved. Without the help of a Danish family who showed us the way to the
newer Lighthouse Nakkehoved West (aka Gillbjerg),
we would never have found this one, even though it is only a few hundred meters
west of the old tower. Thank you (Tak)!
Our next stop was planned to be Helsingør (Kronborg). With the help of a list, our old
friend Finn had let us have, we knew that there should be the beacon Julebæk
and only the coincidence of seeing this name in passing at a Restaurant/Hotel
(and of course stopped at once) we saw the otherwise easily missed sea mark.
Bingo!
Carry on to Helsingør, the castle and therefore the Lighthouse Kronborg
was soon found. We knew the light was to be found in the northeast tower. Sadly that tower was clad in
scaffolding – Hard luck!
We made a little detour to the two little mole lights of Helsingør.
These were surrounded by the vehicles of the people fishing here. One car stood directly in the photo-line
of port and starboard light. Even though the anglers would have preferred to
remain undisturbed, I asked one if he could move his car for a minute to let me
take a good picture. Answer: No problem, but a few minutes. After more than a
few minutes the car rolled back and I could take the required picture.
3 PM – originally a crossing to Sweden and to the lighthouse Kullen was planned for
now. And here at the Danish-Swedish border such ideas are easily made reality.
At the entry to the harbour we passed very close by the lighthouse
Helsingborg, which is already in operation. We take pictures of all three sector colours and could carry on
immediately in the direction of Mölle/Kullen. Really we were only looking for
the Lighthouse Kullen, but we found an area,
which we got quite enthusiastic about (Kullaberg). It is worth planning a
complete day here! We left the Grotto unvisited, but we made the descend to the
Lighthouse Kullen västra at the foot of
this beautiful peninsula.
On the way back we saw the Lighthouse Svinbådan and tried to take a
reasonable photograph with the telephoto lens.
Return to Denmark and home to Røsnæs – Wonderful day!
3th lighthouse day
The car remained home and we explore the peninsula where we are staying on foot. It is a very hilly area and the nearer we come to the tip the more the paths wind towards the viewpoint. Then we reach the Lighthouse Røsnæs, but find that neither the tower nor the site is accessible. We round the tip of the peninsula and search for a spot for a good photograph, which is more difficult than expected. On the way back we take the path along the north coast.
4th lighthouse day
Inspired by the previous day we want to do similar things with the peninsula of Asnæs opposite, which we can see from our holiday house. We drive until the road ends, which for safety's sake is done with little speed, because we have never experienced such a glut of deer and pheasants, as we see in these woods. After the last houses and acar park only a path leads along the coast of the fjord. We walk a fair time and feel like we should reach the tip soon, but there is no sign of our "flashing" objective. Then it appears after all and we reach the little Lighthouse Asnæs. Now we look a few hundred meters over the Kalundborg Fjord in the direction of our house, which by car is several dozen kilometres away.
5th lighthouse day
We drive to Stigsnæs, the most south-westerly point of Seeland. From here the ferries
leave to the islands of Omø and Agersø. We are not clear about, which we should
take, because there is a lighthouse worth seeing on both islands. The
time-table does not help with our decision because both ferries leave at the
next departure. We decide on Omø, because the ferry passes quite close to the
island of Agersø. So we take a few photographs of the lighthouse Helleholm,
because we don't know if we will visit this island later (we will do that
though!). The crossing took about 45 minutes and we, land lovers, enjoy it.
When we arrived on Omø we do not follow the roads into the centre of the island, but walk
directly along the beach to the Lighthouse Omø. A lovely walk, a beautiful
lighthouse and it is open to the public. We climb it and notice that for the
first time we did not end up on the walkway but directly in the lantern room. We
look in the direction of Langeland and recognise – with the aid of binoculars –
the lighthouse Hov, which we climbed last year.
We took the last ferry to the mainland.
6th lighthouse day
Our destination is Sjællands Odde, even though we knew that there is no lighthouse
there, because that is 8 Km out to sea. Because we were here years ago, we
wanted to refresh our memory. The most extreme tip is military restricted area,
so like the last time we stopped just short of there. With binoculars we see
the lighthouse Gniben on Sjællands Rev. The curiosity gets stronger and when we
read on the three language plaque, that there is a path from the car park to
the tip along the military land, is open at certain times, a decision is made:
Even though we notice all Danes turn round at the open gate and a sign says so,
we drive into the military zone and find the said car park, where the part
starts which leads us to the tip. You can see the white tops of the waves,
where the reef, at the end of which the lighthouse Sjællands Odde stands,
reaches into the sea for 8 kilometres. After a rain shower has passed over,
this is visible at the horizon, but at 8 km nothing can be done even with the
telephoto lens!
We leave the military area without any trouble and we don't know to this day, if we were
allowed there.
7th lighthouse day
We drive to the little harbour town of Havnsø, the last kilometres take us through
Vesterlyng, a grassy heath land, covered in juniper bushes. Here not
only do you find 5 kilometres of the best sand beach of Westsealand, but an
area with the freely roaming running horses, which has it's own flair, which we
so far have not found anywhere else.
We take the ferry to the island of Sejerø, a very modern one – taken into service in
1998. The crossing passes the island of Nekselø, which we already know from a
previous holiday. Arriving on Sejerø, we carry on on foot in the direction of
the north-west tip, lighthouse in sight. We use the road on the way there,
because we can not assess the distance and so get on faster. We reach the
yellow, Lighthouse Gniben after approx. 1.5 hours
walk and are compensated for the effort. The best weather and a wonderful view
let us linger for a long while. On the way back we take our time and follow the
coast to the little ferry port Sejerby. Until the ferry arrives we have some
time and after countless trips to Denmark, I drink my first Danish beer at a
"Strandgrillen", it was in a plastic cup, cold but thirst quenching. Pleasant
trip back – a lovely day.
8th lighthouse day
Because up to now we had so much fun with the Island-Tours, we decide to pay a visit to the island of Agersø after all. Again we go to Stigsnæs, but this time we take the other ferry, the crossing takes only 15 minutes. In the sunny calm weather we walk in a southerly direction and later on the hook in an easterly direction. Here we reach the Lighthouse Helleholm, which we have already seen from a distance during the crossing to Omø. On the way back a strong wind is coming up and blows into our faces.
9th lighthouse day
Our second big lighthouse-roundtrip. We drive in the direction of Stevns Klint and
see the pretty Lighthouse Stevns from a fair distance and
are thrilled, of course we miss the sign at the beginning of the lighthouse
access road. We drive towards the red and white barrier with the kind of
determination that lets the military guard open the barrier. Only now we notice
that the tower stands in the middle of the barracks. We don't take the chance
and stop a few meters before. This unusual behaviour sees to it that the
barrier resumes it's horizontal position. In English I question the duty officer,
who hurriedly appeared, if we can visit the tower – of course NOT, an a bit
later if we can take pictures of it – also NOT. He apologizes, for not being
able to help us. My "OF COURSE" prompts his question "HOW?". The answer
"By looking in a different direction for a few minutes!" lets us both laugh heartily.
During this I must have accidently
touched the button on the camera! I take my leave and we drive away from the
tower (about 100 m). We turn off and drive to the next village Højerup. Here is
the church where the choir has dropped into the sea years ago and which is now
marketed as an attraction. We wander a little along the steep coast (I think in
the direction of the lighthouse) and snap the area wildly with the telephoto lens.
At home we discover with shock that we took several pictures exactly in the
direction of the lighthouse. The Danish Army will hopefully forgive us. We
hurried to leave the area in our own vehicle.
On we drive in the direction of Roneklint. We turn after the town of Præstø to the
right on the Margarite-Route and so are led to the village of Roneklint. Here
we only need to follow the road to the coast and found the little Lighthouse
Roneklint without difficulty.
The next aim was the north east tip of the Island of Møn. We took the road next the
coast and notice, when we reach the Møn Klint, that we are too far already. The
only chance to get closer to the coast, is Castle Liselund, to which we return.
Here we find a beautiful castle and park, which was certainly worth the
de-tour. We disturb two gesticulating men in their dispute and asked after the
lighthouse. We were lucky, one knew the lighthouse and the other spoke English.
500 meters along the cliff edge in a westerly direction and Hellehavn
Nakke Fyr was found.
On we went to Klintholm Havn. Directly by the entrance into the village a road leads east,
directly to the Lighthouse Møn. Another example where the
search for a position for photographs presents a problem. We would have liked
to have walked form here to the chalk cliffs, but it was already late afternoon
and there were a few more lighthouses on our planned route.
Shortly before we left the Island of Møn we took a side route and got to the little
harbour of Harbølle. We found no lighthouse, but the Seamark
Harbølle which is well worth seeing and it was worth a photograph for us. Directly
opposite is the lighthouse Grønsund, which was too far for this tour and we reserved
it for the way back.
The lighthouses Borgsted and Bogø, which are both on Route 287 towards the
motorway, and both turned out to be little wooden huts a la Julebæk, only in
much worse condition. So back to the holiday house.
10th lighthouse day
Return journey in the direction of Gedser, immediately after the bridge crossing to
Falster, we leave the E55 and drive east. In fog the search for a unknown
lighthouse is a funny thing. But without any de-tour we find the Lighthouse
Grønsund first time, even though we only see it a few meters before we reach it.
We carry on at leisurely speed along the Margarite-Route towards Gedser and only notice back home that we
completely forgot the lighthouse Hestehoved, even though we drove only a few
kilometres from it.
bonus lighthouse day
Back to Germany and on the way the great weather inspires us near Dresden to do a spontaneous de-tour to Moritzburg. An Inland-Lighthouse, which has long been a temptation for us. The Lighthouse Moritzburg is found with the second try and turns out to be very beautiful to look at. We found out about it's existence from Micha, many thanks for that. Nearly two hours late we reach our original destination and are expected with some impatience.