Report about our lighthouse trip to Schleswig-Holstein in August 2001
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1st lighthouse day
For this lighthouse-excursion we chose a "headquarters" near Husum. We wanted
to explore lighthouses on the north Frisian islands, the Schleswig-Holstein coast
and the Danish island of Als as well as their surrounding countryside.
On the first lighthouse day we drive from Husum to Nordstrand (Strucklahnungshörn) and take the ferry to Pellworm. We land at the low water pier, let all other passengers climb into the waiting bus to the old harbour and walk, on our own, in the direction of the island and on in a clockwise direction along the coast. After approx. 5 6 kilometres we reach the Lighthouse Pellworm (Rear light). Sadly the lighthouse can only be viewed by prior arrangement. We eat something in a little café and discover that it happens to be low tide and we can walk to the Lighthouse Pellworm (Low light) which stands in the marshes, and we of course go and can take photographs of the front and rear lights which stand in line. Usually this is only possible for approaching vessels.
Walk back Drive home great start!
2nd lighthouse day
The forecast 30°C (plus) with easterly winds leave only one choice:
Baltic Sea Coast. We drive straight through Schleswig-Holstein to Kappeln
to the Naval Base of Olpenitz. We leave our car on the totally deserted car park
and immediately find the footpath along the northern fence of the military area,
Dirk described. The state of the path is comparable with Jungle. 5 times we wanted
to give up after about 100 meters, we don't and are rewarded: After approx. 500 meters
the jungle yields to a normal path which leads us, after approx. 4 kilometres to the
south end of the mouth of the river Schlei. The Lighthouse
Schleimünde is 10 meters away at the southern end of the pilot stage,
separated by the river mouth. March back to the navy car park, we can't believe our eyes,
everything (car park and surrounding area) is filled with cars: "Open Day".
Lets get out of here and on in a northerly direction to the
camping ground of Falshöft. Sadly the caravans and tents fill the place right
up to the Lighthouse Falshöft. Lighthouses should
On northwards to Neukirchen to find the old leading light. After several turn-rounds and enquiries, we know where it stands: on the way to the bathing area, last property on the left, but well within a private property. We see it, but can not get to it, no photograph.
Again onwards northwards in the direction of Glücksburg, towards Holnis, turn left to Schausende on to the absolute end, there stands Lighthouse Holnis. Not one parking space - never mind - dump Boliden somewhere take some pictures back to Husum.
3rd lighthouse day
The lighthouse St.-Peter-Böhl we know well, as well as Westerheversand, but up to now we don't have a good photograph, we don't know why. So off to St. Peter Ording and again out of luck. The Lighthouse St.-Peter-Böhl is being restored. Builder's vehicles, fences. We take a long walk, get back and see the workmen pack up. Wait 10 minutes and the lighthouse stands in plain sight, only the white tarpaulin on the balustrade remains.
4th lighthouse day
Finally a trip in the direction of the Danish island of Als. We have been to the neighbouring
country to the north so many times, but the 70 kilometres just after the
border are still missing. So we particularly look forward to this tour. Husum
Flensburg Sønderborg: Als is reached quickly. Immediately before Als, we
pass two lighthouses, we see both, but leave them for the return journey (for a
time buffer). On Als we keep to the right and at the end of a small crossing to
the peninsula of Kegnæs is the Lighthouse Kegnæs.
Pretty tower, slightly elevated and newly restored. Of course the lighthouse can be viewed,
from the top there is a fantastic view and recognise the lighthouse Kalkgrund which
stands in the Baltic Sea. We enjoyed this visit a great deal.
Next destination is Lighthouse Gammel Pøl, only a few kilometres further to the northeast. The lighthouse is good to be seen while we drive into direction to the coast. Then there are a few hundred meters foot path on the beach before it is reached. Huge surprise, above the door of this iron tower is a sign: Julius Pintsch Fürstenwalde 1905. The tower was constructed only 9 kilometres from our home!
A further few kilometres further north is the harbour of Mommark. We know of the two identically built Pier lights Mommark. They are not active any more and their condition is pitiful so take a picture and onwards.
Destination is the lighthouse Takensand, which stands immediately north of Fynshav. We approach this ferry port and from the pier see the looked for lighthouse approx. 5 kilometres further north. All attempts to get closer to the lighthouse by car fail because the Danish Army is playing various games in this area of the woods. So back to the campground Fynshav and on foot north. Hard going on the beach, but an easy path in the wood let us reach Lighthouse Taksensand. Of course the tower would have been reachable by car on the roads through the wood, if only the military ...!
Our next destination is the Lighthouse Traner Odde. We only know the approximate co-ordinated and guess it to be near the town of Himmark. Without help though we won't get any further. We ask around and the third Dane knows of the existence of a sea mark at the end of a small not really short road in the direction of the beach Himmark. The style of building we already know from Gammel Pøl. This tower too was built at Fürstenwalde.
On we go towards the northernmost point of the islands. In Nordborg we turn towards the centre and soon discover the first signpost "Fyret". We drive several kilometres and countless right-angled bends and are at some stage sure we had gone wrong. But suddenly we see the Lighthouse Nordborg in front of us again. But the labyrinth of bends carries on for a fair while longer. But at the end compensation the tower is open to visitors and we enjoy the view across the Baltic Sea.
So now we have found all the lighthouses of the island of Als so back on the trunk road 8 to the mainland. Behind Egeskov we had earmarked the access to the lighthouse. Just there we turn towards the Flensburg Marshes and find Lighthouse Skodsbøl after a little ramble, in the middle of a corn-field (hopefully the owner will forgive us the few steps into his cornfield we were not the first anyway). Near the little footpath we find a tourist map of the area and memorise the way to the next lighthouse.
Past Gråsten we turn left in Rinkenæs, finally find the approach road towards Dalsgard and turn right again just before Dalsgard and the Lighthouse Rinkenæs is there in front of us. From here you have a nice view over the Flensburger Marshes and the lighthouse Holnis on the German shore opposite.
We are doing well with our time plan and decide to search for the Lighthouse Ballebro. We keep to the signposts to the ferry to Als, but can't see a lighthouse from the ferry port. The lighthouse is only approx. 200 meters southeast from here, but we only discover it after a 5 kilometre lap of honour through the town of Blans. No wonder it is quite small and hides well behind trees and shrubbery on a little mound. Had we crossed by ferry from Als to the mainland, we would have surely saved the search.
It is late, but we have found all the lighthouses we planned. Shortest way to the motorway and off to Husum.
5th lighthouse day
Again to the Baltic Coast to close the last "gap". We drive to Eckernförde. Once again
it hits us unprepared. It is "Pirate Days". The Pier light
can be photographed without problem, but the old Lighthouse
stands smack in the middle between the big wheel and the sausage stand.
We follow the promenade southwest; find the Leading Light Eckernförde
and then escape.
Onwards towards the village Strande and Lighthouse Bülk at the end of the road. There is a parking place, a snack bar too, the lighthouse is open. From above we see the Lighthouse Kiel in the Baltic Sea, but even the telephoto lens is no help. In any case a great adventure.
Onwards, south along the coastal road. In Kiel-Pries turn first left, some time later a little cul-de-sac turns right and leads to the dyke. Behind the second car park we find Lighthouse Friedrichsort. That is why we brought the telephoto lens, to photograph the tower in the Kieler Förde, but we are surprised, we reach the lighthouse island dry footed via a narrow sandbank.
Last stop is Holtenau Nord. We follow the sign posts to the Nord-Ostsee-Kanal-Schleuse (the sluices at the Canal between North Sea and Baltic) and end up exactly at the Leuchtturm Nord (northern lighthouse). Leuchtturm Süd (southern tower) we see on the other side and tick that off from here, because we see the naval ships behind. At precisely this time the "Europa", likely the most modern passenger liner in the world, turns into the canal. This you call luck! Plan executed and home we go.
6th lighthouse day
Not really a lighthouse day. We are in Dagebüll and find the old Lighthouse Dagebüll behind a dyke. It is no longer active and seems to have no alternative function somewhat sad.
7th lighthouse day
The next north Frisian Island is on the program: Amrum. We charter the Express-Ship (24 knots) from Nordstrand to Sylt via Hooge Holm and Amrum at low tide. The rest of the water lays in front of us like a mirror. Arriving in Wittdün on Amrum we walk along the inland east coast until just before Nebel. There we turn left and get directly to the Leading Light Nebel. Afterwards we go on the middle path north to the turning for Vogelkoje. On the path made of wood starting towards the west coast just here, we reach the Cross Light Norddorf. It has a completely new coat of paint, which can only be a few hours old, because we can still smell the paint. From here you have a wonderful view over Amrum and towards Sylt and the lighthouse Hörnum (spontaneous decision for the next day). We walk with our feet in the North Sea along the west coast back up to the Lighthouse Amrum. We know this light is open to visitors only Monday to Friday, before most of the ferries arrive. Totally baffling, but we don't let us spoil the beautiful impression of the Amrum nature return journey.
8th lighthouse day
Island of Sylt, we decide on a car free change, take the train to Westerland and acquire a
family ticket for the bus, which allows us to use the busses (which go every 20
minutes) for the whole day. We go to Kampen South and take a detour to
Lighthouse Kampen. From here onwards to
List-Ferry. No lighthouse, just a stop and we enjoy the view towards
Ellenbogen. On to Weststrand. On foot along the Ellenbogen (elbow) first to
Lighthouse List-West, then on to Lighthouse
List-East. From Weststrand back south to Kampen Dikstieg. From here it is not far to the
old Lighthouse Rotes Kliff (red cliff).
Now only one lighthouse is missing. We take the south route to Hörnum Harbour
and Lighthouse Hörnum. Sadly the lighthouse
grounds are out of bounds. We get the friendly tip that there maybe plans afoot
to open the lighthouse for viewing next year. This is of little use to us, but
if anyone comes along here next year, could report to us, how the viewing
worked out. Back to Westerland and home by train.
This bus-train variation worked out super and is, especially for families, unbeatably affordable.
9th lighthouse day
We drive past the Harbour Schüttsiel in the direction of Dagebüll.
Around a kilometre from the roundabout to the turn off to Dagebüll there
is on the left at the cross-dyke, a little car park. From here it is not far to the Lorendamm
(a little railway dam) to Oland and Langeneß (a sign advises of this).
We want to walk through the marshes to Oland, but to be safe always want to stay
close to the dam. Sadly the marshes are ankle deep and we have a hard time getting on.
After approx. one kilometre we give up and carry on, with shoes again, along the dam.
The railway sleepers are not suitable because they are to irregular. But immediately next to them
you can walk somehow on the gravel. After approx. 1.5 hours we reach Oland and
it begins to be a comfortable footpath towards the wharf which is reached 20
The little Lighthouse Oland is situated on the north side of the wharf and is not easy to discover. We continue the trip round the wharf and get a hearty snack in the eatery, which should actually be closed on this day. We are pleasantly surprised and refreshed can tackle the difficult way back, the wind having increased again. With force 8 to 9 the balancing on the dam is a funny but tiring task. Worn out we reached the car.